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The Beauty Wonk

March 14, 2020

11 Skincare Acids: What They Are, Benefits & How to Use Them

Are you someone who gets scared when they hear the word “acids” in skincare? Or are you the one who has adjusted to the idea and willing to know more about them? Whichever group you belong to, you’ll learn all about these skincare acids in this post.

With the evolution of skincare, you must have seen different acids everywhere. But what do these skincare acids mean? How do they benefit us? Which acid should you use in your skincare routine? If you are searching for an answer to these questions then this post is going to put an end to the search.

Here, I have explained what the most commonly used or heard of skincare acids do and how they benefit your skin. Welcome to the world of acids!

Types of skincare acids and benefits

Different Types of Skincare Acids

1. Alpha Hydroxy Acid

Starting with the most popular skincare acid in the town – Alpha Hydroxy Acids, water-soluble acids that work on the skin’s surface. These chemical exfoliators take off dead skin cells & whiteheads, improve texture and brighten the skin tone.

They’re considered the best for dry, dehydrated skin, due to their ability to enhance natural moisturizing factors (NMFs) within the skin.

But any skin type will benefit from a well-formulated AHA. You should look out for products with a concentration between 4-10% and pH between 3-4.

It’s important to be more diligent with sunscreen as AHAs are known to increase skin’s sensitivity towards the sun.

There are a lot of AHAs but the following are the most heard of in the skincare industry:

Glycolic Acid – One of the most effective and well-researched AHA, glycolic acid has the smallest molecular size which enables deeper penetration. But that can also result in irritation among sensitive skin types.

Check out the review of The Ordinary 7% Glycolic Acid Solution, it’s the best for the price.

Lactic Acid – With a slightly larger molecular size, lactic acid exfoliates the skin with less irritation than glycolic acid. Most preferred by sensitive skin types or skincare beginners.

Mandelic Acid – With bigger molecular size (twice as large as Glycolic acid), mandelic acid is a lot less irritating and is considered best for people with very sensitive skin.

Citric Acid – It’s an AHA that is most commonly used in skincare products as a pH adjuster. It does have exfoliating properties but is not as commonly used. The other AHAs are considered gentler and are better researched.

The most commonly used AHAs are Glycolic acid and Lactic acid.

Everything is a waste if you’re not applying sunscreen daily.

2. Beta Hydroxy Acid

Beta hydroxy acids (BHAs) are chemical exfoliants that are oil-soluble and go deep inside the pores to unclog them.

The most commonly used BHA in skincare is Salicylic Acid. It’s perfect for people with combination to oily skin as it removes oil-buildup and dead skin cells that can cause acne.

Salicylic acid is an excellent ingredient for anyone with acne but it can be drying for people with dry skin. So it’s better for dry skin types to introduce this in a wash-off form, like a Salicylic Acid based cleanser.

The ideal pH range for it to work effectively is between 3-4 and you should look for 1-2% concentration.

My favourite BHA is The Ordinary Salicylic Acid 2% Solution, you can read all about it in the linked review post.

3. Poly Hydroxy Acids

Polyhydroxy acids are chemical exfoliants that are supposed to be as effective as AHAs but more compatible with sensitive skin types.

They work in a similar way as AHAs but don’t increase sun sensitivity. PHAs have larger molecular size, which inhibits deeper penetration, resulting in lesser irritation.

But are they as effective as AHAs? Even though the brands claim that PHAs are as effective, there’s still lesser evidence to support that as of now. Unless your skin is very sensitive, you should go for AHAs.

The PHAs you will find in your products are gluconolactone and lactobionic acid.

You can read my review on the By Wishtrend 2% Acid-duo Cleanser that has both BHA & PHA.

AHA BHA and PHA Skincare Products
AHA, BHA and PHA Skincare Products

4. Azelaic Acid

Azelaic Acid can do whatever you want it to do! It’s a dicarboxylic acid that can be used as a gentle leave-on exfoliant that unclogs pores and refines skin texture. It also reduces redness and closed comedones.

You should reach out for 10% azelaic acid (the maximum permissible limit in OTC products) when you’re starting out. But over time you can increase the concentration and go for prescription products at concentration between 15-20%.

I’ve experienced great benefits from this ingredient during the time my skin was at its worst due to acne. You can read all about it in my review of The Ordinary Azelaic Acid 10% Suspension.

5. Tranexamic Acid

Another hot ingredient that works well for skin concerns like acne spots, melasma and sun damage. It’s still not commonly available in over the counter products but is a favorite among dermatologists.

It’s known to be as effective as Hydroquinone when used topically at a concentration between 2-5% with lesser irritation. A few brands that have tranexamic acid are Good Molecules, Skinceuticals, Murad and Peter Thomas Roth.

6. Kojic Acid

Kojic Acid is used in skincare products targeted for hyperpigmentation. It inhibits the activity of the enzyme that’s responsible for the production of melanin.

Some people also consider this to be a less irritating alternative to Hydroquinone but the general consensus is that the combination of both Kojic Acid and HQ gives the best results for skin issues like melasma.

You can find Kojic acid as one of the many ingredients in creams that claim to target dullness and hyperpigmentation. There are some Kojic Acid soaps available in the pharmacy and are recommended by dermatologists from time to time.

Not all acids are chemical exfoliators.

7. Ascorbic Acid

Ascorbic acid, also known as L-ascorbic acid, is the most well-researched form of Vitamin C. It is an antioxidant that fights free radicals, improves skin texture, evens out skin tone, reduces the appearance of fine lines and stimulates collagen.

The only problem is that this ingredient is unstable and gets oxidised easily. It’s best to keep it in a dark, cold area away from the sunlight and should ideally come in tinted bottles. They work the best at a low pH of 2.5-3.

The ideal Vitamin C serum should have Vitamin E and Ferulic Acid for added stability and antioxidant properties. A combination of all three, 15% L-Ascorbic Acid, 1% Vitamin E and 0.5% Ferulic Acid, can increase the efficacy of Vitamin C eight-fold.

Some of the brands to try out are Drunk Elephant, Timeless, Skinceuticals, Obagi and By Wishtrend.

8. Ferulic Acid

Ferulic acid is a plant-based antioxidant that fights free radicals but it’s mainly used in combination with Vitamin C and Vitamin E to enhance the stability of the formulation and is known to double the protection against sun damage.

9. Alpha Lipoic Acid

Alpha Lipoic Acid is a potent antioxidant that fights free radicals and improves skin texture. It helps to restore uneven skin tone and dullness.

The maximum concentration you should go for is 5% because it can be irritating at higher concentrations. The Ordinary has one if you wish to try this ingredient.

10. Retinoic Acid

Retinols/Retinoids are derived from Vitamin A and are the best anti-ageing ingredients anyone can use. They also improve elasticity, help with acne, clogged pores and PIH.

But they have a few side effects like drying, redness, peeling, etc. These become worse when you’re using Retin-A so it’s important to use them carefully to minimise irritation.

The skin can only process retinoic acid immediately and other forms like retinols have to be converted into retinoic acid by skin enzymes before the skin can use it.

There are several forms available – over-the-counter retinol (they convert to retinoic acid hence weaker), prescription-strength like tretinoin (these are retinoic acid so there’s no conversion, quite effective) and oral medication commonly known as Accutane.

Over-the-counter ones are weaker retinols but they still give great results. These are the ones you should try out if you’re a first-timer, look for the ones that are gentle and have low concentration. And use SPF because it makes your skin sensitive to the sun.

11. Hyaluronic Acid

Nowadays when people hear acids, all they can think of is exfoliation. But that’s not always true!

Hyaluronic Acid boosts skin’s moisture content and it can hold up to 1,000 times its own weight in water, which makes it an excellent hydrator for all skin types. 

It draws moisture from the surroundings and making the skin’s surface feel soft and hydrated. But it doesn’t provide extra hydration to the dry skin so make sure you apply hyaluronic acid on a damp face and lock it with an occlusive.

With hyaluronic acid serums, go for the ones that have other hydrating and soothing ingredients like Ceramides, Centella and/or Vitamin B5. I find that is better as compared to going for a standalone HA product.

How to choose the best acids for your skin?

You don’t have to get them all, pick one or two that sounds the closest to what your skin needs and start out with them.

If you’re a beginner and don’t have any of these:

I’d recommend an AHA or BHA depending on your skin type because everyone needs to exfoliate.

Look for toners/ serums that have Hyaluronic Acid.

Don’t exfoliate more than 3x a week.

You might experience purging initially.

There are a few brands that use a mix of multiple acids while maintaining an elegant and gentle formula. They should be the ones you should explore once you’ve figured out what works the best for you.

How to mix different acids in your skincare?

There’s a lot of confusion among people when it comes to using different ingredients in the same routine. Can you use Niacinamide in the same routine as Vitamin C? Retinol and Vitamin C? AHA & Retinol? AHA & BHA?

The answer to these questions is that it depends on YOU. Your skin’s threshold. Using an exfoliating acid in the same routine as Vitamin C or Retinol might result in skin irritation.

So if you’re someone just starting out and/or have sensitive skin then don’t use two acids (Ascorbic, BHA, AHA, Retinol) in the same routine.

Hyaluronic Acid can be used in the same routine as any other acid. It’s all about hit and trial to find what works the best for your skin.

I know it’s not the answer you were looking for, you wanted a list of ingredients that can be and can’t be mixed like the ones you see on Instagram & Pinterest. But it doesn’t work that way!

My only tip would be to keep it simple and once you find something that works for you stick to it.

It’s important to know that no matter how many great ingredients you use, it will all be of no use if you’re not protecting your skin against the sun.

My favourite sunscreen is Purito Centella Unscented SPF 50+, it is moisturising, non-irritating and has no white cast.

Which skincare acid are you a fan of?

By: Rifat Yaseen · In: Skincare

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Comments

  1. Cherry says

    May 19, 2020 at 2:32 am

    Love the work!
    And when you mentioned that we better not use 2 acids in same routine, did you mean on a same day? Like, can we use them alternatively?

    Reply
    • Rifat Yaseen says

      May 29, 2020 at 8:46 pm

      You can use one in the morning and another at night so yes same day but not same routine. Or you could use it on alternate days.

      Reply
  2. Pragati says

    April 30, 2020 at 4:00 pm

    Really very informative…Thankyou! for all the effort 🙂

    Reply
    • Rifat Yaseen says

      May 3, 2020 at 7:46 am

      I appreciate it, thank you!! xx

      Reply
  3. Sameera says

    April 1, 2020 at 11:06 am

    This is so helpful! Thankyou for writing this post.

    Reply
  4. Manisha says

    March 16, 2020 at 8:37 am

    What a beneficial post?? Very useful one for all n for smone like me who has been so confused all these times bcz of so much hype and ads around. Great post! Also like aha/bha please include some product recommendations for other acids as well. It will make the post more complete.
    Thank u Rifat!!

    Reply
    • Rifat Yaseen says

      March 17, 2020 at 9:19 pm

      Thank you so much! I will update the post and add similar product suggestion infographic for the rest of the acids. If you want product suggestions for some it’s mentioned within the paragraph. Honestly, I got too lazy by the end and rushed it, thank you for the suggestion. 🙂

      Reply
  5. Krishna daga says

    March 14, 2020 at 9:54 pm

    This is awesome ! Great work !

    Reply
    • Rifat Yaseen says

      March 15, 2020 at 5:52 pm

      Thank you!!

      Reply

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Hello, it's Rifat! Welcome to my beauty space where I talk about makeup, skincare & haircare. My aim is to talk about healthy skin and not run after unrealistic beauty standards.

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Rifat 🇮🇳 Skincare Blogger
Not every product will remove your acne or stubbor Not every product will remove your acne or stubborn dermal PIH. But do they suck? Maybe they have ingredients that will help you in maintaining your skin?🤔

In many cases, the brands are to be blamed too. They tend to overpromise and underdeliver which sets wrong expectations in consumers.

👉 Anyway, these were just my thoughts and idk about the research behind it. Take it with a grain of🧂

✨Feel free to drop in your skincare queries.✨

‼️By no means I want to imply that skincare is as important and necessary as food. That was just an analogy.😌
I see too many "Oh it's just hydrates the skin" bu I see too many "Oh it's just hydrates the skin" but,

What if your skin is dull because it's not hydrated? What if you're breaking out because your barrier is impaired due to lack of moisturization? What if your face feels tight because it's dehydrated? What if the minor fine lines are a result of lack of hydration? Hydrate your skin... with skincare products ofc, not by drinking water😋

PS: apologies for playing with the emoji. I got carried away🥳

Feel free to comment in case you need product suggestions 😊

#skincarequotes #skincaredaily #skincaretips #skincarelove #igskincare #365skincare #skincareaddiction #skincareaddict #takecareofyourskin #dryskincare #oilyskin  #skincarecommunity #skinroutine #skinproducts #skintips #skincareadvice #skincarereview #sensitiveskin #dehydratedskin #skincaretips101 #skincarethread
I have a super low maintenance hair (not the scalp I have a super low maintenance hair (not the scalp though but that's another story). They're straight, moderately frizzy, not too dry, and not too dense. Now let's see how the @nykaabeauty Onion & Fenugreek haircare worked for me. (gifted)

TL;DR Shampoo is good.

𝗗𝗼𝗲𝘀 𝘁𝗵𝗲 𝘀𝗵𝗮𝗺𝗽𝗼𝗼 𝗮𝗰𝘁𝘂𝗮𝗹𝗹𝘆 𝗿𝗲𝗱𝘂𝗰𝗲 𝗵𝗮𝗶𝗿𝗳𝗮𝗹𝗹?
I don't know. I do shed a lot of hair in general but I don't sit and count them. I don't want to stress about nothing. I do have certain areas that lack density but idc atm, I'll marry rich and use the guy's money to get a transplant or something.

👉All I can say is, the shampoo cleanses the hair well, lathers really well for an SLS free shampoo, doesn't strip the hair, and didn't trigger more hairfall in my case. The texture is runny and the packaging is convenient.💙

𝙀𝙫𝙚𝙣 𝙬𝙝𝙚𝙣 𝙄 𝙨𝙠𝙞𝙥𝙥𝙚𝙙 𝙖𝙣𝙩𝙞-𝙙𝙖𝙣𝙙𝙧𝙪𝙛𝙛 𝙨𝙝𝙖𝙢𝙥𝙤𝙤, 𝙢𝙮 𝙨𝙘𝙖𝙡𝙥 𝙙𝙞𝙙𝙣'𝙩 𝙜𝙚𝙩 𝙞𝙩𝙘𝙝𝙮.🥳

Which shampoo are you using these days? Do you like it? Hate it? Meh it?

𝗪𝗵𝗮𝘁 𝗮𝗯𝗼𝘂𝘁 𝘁𝗵𝗲 𝗰𝗼𝗻𝗱𝗶𝘁𝗶𝗼𝗻𝗲𝗿?
I expect a conditioner to soften and detangle my hair. And this one failed. The softness is OK-ish, doesn't help with frizz, and my hair feel tangled. It's as good as not applying any conditioner. And as I said, my hair is easy.

👉I tried different combos and the shampoo works great with other conditioners. In my case, it's the flawsome kinky berry mask.

𝗣𝗿𝗶𝗰𝗲 & 𝗣𝗮𝗰𝗸𝗮𝗴𝗶𝗻𝗴
The packaging attracted me to these products the most. White and lavender 🥺 make me look forward to hairwash days. They're priced well too considering how everything costs atleast 700 these days🌚

#NykaaAffiliates #NykaaBeautyXNAP #GoodHairDayEveryday #NykaaHairCare #NykaaNaturals #NykaaBeauty
Why do you take hard balm, rub it directly on your Why do you take hard balm, rub it directly on your cheeks harshly, immediately add water, and then complain it's not working? Heinn?

PS: Yes I know some brands have really soft cleansing balms that melt as soon as you touch them. Exception. Also depends on the weather condition. But I'm mostly referring to when people take a chunk that resembles cold, hard butter on their cheeks and aggressively try to rub it. Don't do it imo.
It's a close call between the two but if you refer It's a close call between the two but if you refer to the comparison, @spektacosmetics wins... for everyone except me😭 Hear me out, okay?

For me, strategically placing oil on skin with a tool is OK. But rubbing oil between my fingers is like scratching fingernails on a chalkboard. The squeal sends shivers down my body and same is the case with oils. I know it's weird and isn't the case with most and I get it. But that's just me. So it's a very personal choice. For you, it'll be a plus point because the oils actually nourish your nails and the skin around it. Also, the packaging is cute.

➡️Talking about nailpolish removal,

They both work fine when I'm working with lighter colours but the true ability of a nailpolish remover is revealed when I test it with my OPI Big Apple Cherry.

Colorbar stains the hand I use to hold the cotton and my nail bed, Red. I kind of have to work hard to get rid of that. Don't enjoy that. It's relatively easier to remove with Spekta.

Which nailpolish remover would you choose?
❗Spekta (gifted by brand), affiliate code - RIFAT15 for 15% off.
Khadija (@beautyanomaly) tagged me to share 8 thin Khadija (@beautyanomaly) tagged me to share 8 things about myself and it really took me a while to think of all these points. I didn't know that I didn't know much about myself but here you go:

1. I've always achieved well academically just by putting in the least efforts.

2. I like to impress people (both online and offline) and make them happy so I get really nervous and tired while socialising.

3. I haven't watched Harry Potter. Ok maybe I have (a part or two) when I was a kid. But I really don't care about it. Same with DC/Marvel or whatever sci-fi comic stuff that exists. Don't unfollow me.

4. I like to overplan, decorate, and organize. I can't wait to have my own place so I can decorate it the way I want.

5. I'm very scared of October. I have lost 3 close family members in the past 3 years - each of them in October.

6. I'm camera shy and that's why I've been delaying my YouTube appearance. I just don't wanna look ugly and awkward.😭

7. I sometimes sniff my underarms on days I don't take a shower. The weird smell makes me gag but I still like it.

8. No matter how hard things get, I never actually complain about life. I'm always very grateful. Might be surprising because I don't talk much about positivity and shitting rainbows🌈. But that's because it's a part of my nature so I just think it's like, idk, brushing your teeth? You don't need to tell people to do that because you think they already do.

Tell me one RANDOM thing about yourself. Please embarrass yourself so I feel better🥰
My love letter📝 to @aveenous For more than 3 y My love letter📝 to @aveenous

For more than 3 years, I stepped out of the shower with red, itchy skin mostly on the upper body. It'd take at least half an hour to settle down no matter how much I moisturized. I changed bodywashes and soaps and even changed water as I moved  cities but nothing worked.

Initially I accepted that this is how it's going to be but the annoyance made me decide to visit a doctor and get it checked. But the pandemic happened and my appointment was postponed indefinitely.

Around the same time, I found the Aveeno Skin Relief Body Wash. It was fragrance free and had oatmeal to soothe the skin. It felt like a perfect match so I asked my followers about it. They unanimously approved it✔️ (thanks guys!) and I went ahead with the purchase.

Ever since I have started using it, there hasn't been a single case of redness. No itching either. So gentle, calming, non-foaming - truly a skin relief💙 I can't imagine trying any other body wash now 🥺 Thank you for making this!

With love❤️
Rifat

🏷️

#aveeno #bodycare #bodycareproducts #bodycareroutine #bodycaretips #takecareofyourbody #bodywash #bodywashes #sensitiveskin #sensitiveskinsolution #sensitiveskincare #sensitiveskinproducts #showergel #showergels #beautyreviews #skincarescience #skincarefavourites #igbeautyblog #skincareaddicted #kbeautylover #skincareobsessed #igskincare
𝗝𝗮𝗻 '𝟮𝟭 𝗘𝗺𝗽𝘁𝗶𝗲𝘀 For me emptying existing products >>> buying new ones. Tell me what you finished this month!

Before the world shut down, I had moved cities multiple times in just a year and a half. And I had to allot an entire huge suitcase for my cosmetics. I'd literally walk in railway stations and airports with 2 big suitcases and a heavy backpack all alone😭 and that made me abhor clutter even more.

So my life goal (lol) now is to finish everything I have. Let's see my empties:

💦 @pixibeauty Vitamin-C Cleanser - Good quality micellar water. If you're not into cleansing oils and balms, try it. (PR)

💦 Pixi Glow Cleansing Gel - What an underrated cleanser! No foam at all and absolutely non-drying. Love it, do try💙 (PR)

🧴@sulwhasoo.india FCA - It surprised me! Was expecting irritation but I got hydration, calmness, and supple skin. Wasn't suprised enough to repurchase though. But I'm intrigued by the brand and want to try the emulsions and sleeping packs. (PR)

💠 @laneigeindia White Dew Essence - Has a viscous, gel-like texture. Decent in terms of hydration but the sweet artificial scent is too strong for my liking. Skip🤞

🏷️

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